The Song Wat Fish Ball Noodle Chronicles: Lim Lao Sa vs. Lim Lao Ngow
Truth be told, I was never a big fan of fish balls. Growing up in Malaysia, I never quite understood the fuss. However, after living in Bangkok for a decade, fish ball noodles have become a regular staple—provided you know exactly which stall to pick.
Last weekend, while navigating the streets of Saint Louis via MuvMi (check out my MuvMi guide here and use code 47PFL94T for a 50B discount!), I finally took a closer look at a local legend: Lim Lao Sa.
The Legend of the “Lim” Brothers
If you’ve ever been confused by the names Lim Lao Sa and Lim Lao Ngow, you aren’t alone. “Lim” (林) is the family surname, and in Teochew (the Chaoshan dialect), “Lao” (老) means “old” or “elderly.”
- Lim Lao Sa (ลิ้มเล่าซา / 林老三): The 3rd Brother.
- Lim Lao Ngow (ลิ้มเหล่าโหงว / 林老五): The 5th Brother.
Much like the famous Rung Reung pork noodles on Sukhumvit 26, these are branches of the same legendary lineage. The family arrived from Shantou, China, in 1937 with nothing but a mat, a pillow, and a secret recipe for “bouncing” or “dancing” fish balls made of 100% sea fish—no flour allowed.
Lim Lao Sa (The 3rd Brother) – The Hidden Gem
We frequent the Saint Louis branch of Lim Lao Sa; it’s simply one of my husband’s all-time favorites. While the original Song Wat branch is the most iconic, the service there can be… let’s say, “authentically grouchy.” (We once encountered an auntie there whose grumpiness was as legendary as the noodles!)
The Celebrity Spike: The Song Wat shop recently saw a massive surge in visitors after being featured in Chef Pam’s (of the Michelin-starred Potong) Condé Nast Traveler Bangkok food guide. She named it her absolute favorite fish ball noodle spot in the city.
The Saint Louis Branch: interestingly, the signage and Google listing for this branch only say “Lao Sa,” omitting the “Lim.” However, once you open the menu, the full “Lim” name is right there. I was also pleasantly surprised to find a clear, bilingual Thai and English menu—perfect for expats!
- The Vibe: A lighter, more refreshing broth that lets the natural fish flavor shine.
- The Signature: You must order the BaMee Baen (บะหมี่แบน). These are thick, flat egg noodles that are surprisingly rare to find in your average noodle shop.
- Must Order: The Giaw Pla (เกี๊ยวปลา) or fish wontons. The wrapper is made from fish belly and stuffed with a creamy mix of minced pork and fish. It is incredibly satisfying.
- Price: Noodles start at 60 Baht, but a dedicated plate of Giaw Pla will run you 100 Baht.
Lim Lao Ngow (The 5th Brother) – The Michelin Star
The 5th brother is arguably the more “famous” one today, boasting 18+ branches and several consecutive Michelin Bib Gourmand awards from 2018 through 2026. While Lao Sa stays humble, Lao Ngow has mastered the art of expansion.
- The Vibe: Their secret weapon is fragrant shallot oil. This makes the broth and dry noodles incredibly aromatic, though some find it a bit greasier compared to Lao Sa’s cleaner, “healthier” version.
- The Logistics: Much more accessible. You can find them in modern hubs like MBK or One Bangkok.
- The Price Gap: Be warned! Mall prices can hit 100–300 Baht per bowl, whereas the original street stall at Song Wat still serves them for a humble 60 Baht.
The Verdict: Which Brother Wins?
| Feature | Lim Lao Sa (3rd Brother) | Lim Lao Ngow (5th Brother) |
| Sibling | 3rd Son (林老三) | 5th Son (林老五) |
| Broth Style | Light, Clean, Refreshing | Rich & Aromatic (Shallot Oil) |
| Signature Noodle | Flat Egg Noodles (BaMee Baen) | Flat Egg Noodles (BaMee Baen) |
| Vibe | Traditional, “Authentic” Service | Modern, Global Branding |
| Accolades | Chef Pam’s Top Pick, Bib Gourmand 2019 | Michelin Bib Gourmand (2018-2026) |
Pro-Tip for Foodies: Both original stalls are tucked away near Song Wat Road, less than a five-minute walk apart. Since Thai noodle portions are famously small, it is entirely possible to do a “back-to-back” tasting in one trip!
Logistics & Walking
We used MuvMi from Empire Tower to reach the area, which was seamless. After the meal, we decided to walk back to BTS Saint Louis. It’s a very doable 1km+ walk (about 20 minutes) and a great way to explore the hidden galleries and coffee shops tucked away in the neighborhood.
